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Part IV

Africa : Kilimanjaro to Victoria Fall 



Thanks to the carefully prepared travel brochure, nearly 70 pages, I am retracing places we visited.

Where we have been and where are we going?


We landed in Nairobi, Kenya, the country where our current US prsident's father came.
Then we went to Tanzania to visit Serengeti Park via Arusha, a border town.
When you read the story of Hemingway, "The snows of Kilimanjaro",  you realized this is the place
where the story is
unfolding, Arusha. 
We visited Ngorongoro (Vocanic Crater) Park,  Olduvai Gorge, and  Masai tribe village.

After Amboceli Park, north side of Mt. Kilimanjaro, we are going back Nairobi to have a lunch in a
Korean restaurant and fly out of the country. We saw a local dance show in evening and tasted all kinds
 of meats, barbecued:  crocodile, buffalo, ostrich,  etc
But, I could not tell
which is which. It seems we tasted every meats except elephant meat.

Then we flew to Johannesbourg, capital city of S. Africa. We slept one night there and flew to
Livingstone, Zambia.
Three countries (Zimbabway, Botswana, Zambia) are sharing a river Zambezi which become a
Victoria Fall,  the biggest 
water wall in the world.
In Botswana, we visited Chobe National Park on a boat.


7 countries map.jpg

여행은 본인이 계획을 않하고 따라만 다니면, 어디를 갔다 왓는지, 기억하기가 어려운데,
이번 7 개국을 돌아다니는 18
일간 여행은 여행시에서 준비한 근 70 페지에 달하는 자세한 일정
덕분에 노트를 할 필요가 없엇고, 나중에 여기 글같이
여행을 재구성할수 있는 것이다.

그러면, 어디서 어디로 이 글 줄기가 흘러가는지, 요약해보면,

미국 대통령 아버지 고향인 케니아 수도 나이로비에 도착해, 헤밍외이 단편 소설 "키리만 자로의 눈" 의
배경이 되는 국
경 도시 아류샤 를 거쳐 비행기로 탄자니아 세렝게키 공원지나, 화산 분화구 옹고롱고 공원,
마사히 부족 동네, 올두
바이 계곡을 거쳐 지금 키리만 자로 산 북쪽 암보셀리 공원으로 향하는 중이다.

그후에는 나이로비에 돌아와 한국 식당에서 불고기로 점심을 먹고,
저녁에 케니아 사람들의 전 통적인 춤구경을 하고, 10 가지 고기를 를 구어주는 바베큐도 먹엇는데,
내 입에는 그놈이
그놈.

악어고기, 타조고기, 사슴고기, 버팔로고기, 코끼리 고기만 빼고는 전부 먹어본것 같이 기억이 희미하다.
 

이틋날 남아연방 수도로 가서 하루를 쉬고 그곳의 정부 건물, 역사 박물관을 보았다.

Zimbabway, Botswana, Zambia 새나라가 Zambezi 강을 경게로 하고, 그강은 
세계에서 제일 크다는 Victoria Fall 로 떨어진다.
 
Botswana 서는  Chobe National Park 를 배를 타고 둘러 본다.



On 3-26,  my second birthday, which were celebrated with our travel mates, we went to Windhook,
capital city of Namibia, a country mostly
desert.

Well, I have to confess that I have two birthdays, a byproduct of Japanese colonial rules.
Apparently, Korean farmers ignored the solar calendar introduced by Japanese colonial rulers and
kept using Lunar calendar. My grand father gave a Japanese clerk my birthday on lunar calendar,
but the clerk did not convert it into solar calendar. So my real birthday is on another day!

나는 생일이 두개인데, 일본 점령치하에 출생해서 복잡한 이유로 생긴 사고이다.  


Now some photos below.

Nairobi street scene.



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Street souvenier Venders, selling ear rings, wrist braces, etc.


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Border town crossing to Tanzania


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Souvenier Shop.

I bought several wooden aninal sculptures for my grand children, aged 5 and 1.5



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They make long legged human figurings.

They do have long legs.


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Airial Survey of animals in Amboceli Park.

6029 Zebras,얼룩말
2283 Giraffe,기린,

etc    등등




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Mt. Kilimanjaro is often covered by passing cloud and
the summit is hard to see clearly, they say. But we saw it.

While we were in the park,  there was a sandstorm with windy rain.



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In the bookshop here, I bought the book,

"Snows of Kilimanjaro" by E, Hemingway.

It is the collection of short stories.


******* The colored part below is quotations from internet.******


The Snows of Kilimanjaro (story)

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 
Hemingway hunting on safari, 1934

"The Snows of Kilimanjaro" is a short story by Ernest Hemingway.

It was first published in Esquire magazine in 1936.
It was republished in The Fifth Column and the First Forty-Nine Stories in 1938,
The Snows of Kilimanjaro and Other Stories in
1961, and is included in
The Complete Short Stories of Ernest Hemingway: The Finca Vigía Edition (1987).

The story centers on the memories of a writer named Harry who is on safari in Africa.
He has developed an infected wound from a thorn puncture, and lies awaiting his slow death.
This loss of physical capability causes him to look inside himself—at his memories of the past years,
and how little he has actually accomplished in his writing. He realizes that although he has seen
and experienced many wonderful and astonishing things during his life, he had never made a
record of the events; his status as a writer is contradicted by his reluctance to actually write.

He also quarrels with Helen, the woman with him, blaming her for his living decadently and
forgetting his failure to write of what really matters to him, namely his experiences among poor
and "interesting" people, not the predictable upper class crowd he has fallen in with lately.
Thus he dies, having lived through so much and yet having lived only for the moment,
with no regard to the future. In a dream he sees a plane coming to get him and take him to the top of
Mount Kilimanjaro as a hyena is heard from the distance.

"The Snows of Kilimanjaro" is regarded as one of Hemingway's greatest works,
holding its own alongside "A Farewell to Arms".

A film adaptation of the short story, directed by Henry King, written by Casey Robinson,
and starring
Gregory Peck as Harry, Susan Hayward as Helen, and Ava Gardner as Cynthia Green
(a character invented for the film) appeared in 1952.
The film's ending does not mirror the book's ending.

This story inspired Korean singer Cho Yong-pil to write the song "A Leopard of Kilimanjaro".



Apparently, Hemingway came here for a Safari hunging trip.

In the story, Harry says to his girl friend, that he just liked her money not her, v
ery very verbally abusive, to hurt her as much as he can,  bordering on saddism. 
In the end Hemingway  did it to himself, committng suicide. 


헤밍위이는 이곳에 사냥을 하러 더녀갓고, 소설에 나오는 주인공 해리는 여자 친구에게, 가슴을 찌르는 소리만 한다.

"나는 이제 이상처로 죽을 것이다.
사실 내가 너를 촣아햇다라기 보다는 네가 가진 돈을 좋아햇엇다."

죽어 가면서 한다는 얘기가 그렇게 잔인할수가?

결국은 그 잔인한 송곳잘을 자기에게 향하면서 일생을 모험과 자살로 끝낸 작가다.

조용필이가 이 "A Leopard of Kilimanjaro". 노래햇다는 얘기는 처음들어 본다,


"Personal Struggles and Suicide

The author continued his forays into Africa and sustained several injuries during his adventures,
even surviving multiple plane crashes.

In 1954, he won the Nobel Prize in Literature. Even at this peak of his literary career, though,
 the burly Hemingway's body and mind were beginning to betray him. Recovering from various
old injuries in Cuba, Hemingway suffered from depression and was treated for numerous conditions
such as high blood pressure and liver disease.

He wrote A Moveable Feast, a memoir of his years in Paris, and retired permanently to Idaho.
There he continued to battle with deteriorating mental and physical health.

Early on the morning of July 2, 1961, Ernest Hemingway committed suicide in his Ketchum home.""







Amboceli Lodge  where we stayed one night.


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Our travel mate, Dr and Mrs. Kilyung Park, now a phographer, a surgeon in Los Angeles.

대학교 동기 동창 백길영 동문 부부, 외가 의사가 은퇴후 사진작가로 전업


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Monkey carries her baby in the lodge garden.




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Night falls  in the lodge.


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Cloud moves in and out every hour below the mountain.


산아래 구름이 수시로 몰려온다.



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Now this place became a nation park and hunting is not allowed.

옛날 유료 사냥터가 지금은 공원이돼서
동물들이 사람을 그렇게 무서워 하는것 같질  않다.


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Elephant and egret help each other.
The birds are eating insects on the elephant skin.

코끼리와 황새는 서로 도와주고 산다,
황새는 코끼리 피부에 기생하는 벌레를 청소한다







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A Korean restaurant in Nairobi

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한국음식 재료는 한국서 공수한다고 한다.

All the Korean food material is coming from Korea by air.


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Evening local dance show.
Music is vibrant and dancers are very muscular.





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We were heading to Johanesbourg and saw the Mt. Kilimanjaro
for the last time from the air.






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Johanesburg.

This city was once the symbol of notorious Aphaltheid racial segregation policy.
UN removed even the membership.

Now the country does not even ask for the entrance visa fee, not even one dollar!
Free entry and free exit as if they try to remind people of their sad history,
the closed door to non-white people!

They are now welcoming everybody.

한때 요하네스버그는 악명높은 인종 격리정책의 상징이 엿고,  유엔에서 회원권 까지 박탁당햇다.
흑인은 통행중이 있어여 여행을 햇고 격리된지역을 벗어날 수도 없엇다,

지금은 이 나라는 입국 비사도 요구하지 않고,  입국할때 단 일불의 돈을 요구하지 않는 나라다.
 모든 외국인의 입국을 환영한다.





DSC03774.jpg


Government building. 정부 청사 건물.

I see the Chinese red flags everywhere.
I heard VIP vist from China is going on.
There are many Chinese and Korean tourists here in South Africa,
according to the Korean guide.


DSC03768.jpg





We visited War History museum, in Johannesbourg.
Main theme was early dutch, french, and other settlers were being pushed
by british power who occupied southern part of Africa.

Around 15 c, Portugees arrived, then many dutch (Netherland) people came here and they used
black people as their slaves which caused continuous conflict. Even black tribes fought each other.

This was the time when Dutch people came to Japan through East India company, including Hamel and
his group whose boat sank near Jeju Island Korea,  going around Capetown, long before Suez Canal was
opened.

The early white settlers, mainly dutch white people were chased to north, Johanesgurg area 
which is depicted by these carriage on the reliefe sculptures.
This was the war between white and white. 

I lived in Canada, Quebec, an old French colony for 10 years. There again, the late comer british conquered the french settlers and Quebec was finally occupied by the british. Canada became a british colony
like Australia.  In the recent century, the white majority in S. Africa, the dutch descendnets, made their language an  official language, not English.
They gradually thigtened racial segregation policy since 1950, until they finally gave up the segration
policy with the international pressure and internal black people's revolt.

Nelson Mandela became the symbol of black resistance.

It is an irony that S. Africa sent troops to help S. Korea during Korean war in 1950. 

There are about 75 % blacks, 13.6% whites and and 8.6 %mixed races, including indians.
Once they allowed voting right to mixed races, but not to blacks, which did not solve the problem.

Finally, in 1990, Mr Nelson  Mandela, the symbol of black resistance, was released after 27 years of
 imprisonment and became the president in 1994.

New history began.

What is so remarkable for Nelson Mandela was the fact that he did not
approve the  revenge against the previous oppressors, whites, asking for the forgivement of his enemies,
from the black people.  They did not confiscate the properties of the white oppresors like some other
african countries.

I was thinking about those Japanese born in Korea and their properties after the second world war.
Many Koreans born in Japan did not have to return to Korea from Japan.
but Japanese were not allowed to remain in Korea after the WW II. 

 

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Wall sculpture depicting racial conflict among blacks, whites, and whites.


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A bit more history:

1953: Bantu Education Act:
Through this law, the white government supervises the education of all blacks.

Schools condition blacks to accept white domination.
Non-whites cannot attend white universities.





· 1970s: Resistance to apartheid increases. Organizing by churches and workers increases. Whites join blacks in the demonstrations.

· 1970s: The all-black South African Students Organization, under the leadership of Steven Biko, helps unify students through the Black Consciousness movement. A typical protest poster is shown below.













· 1976: The Soweto uprising: People in Soweto riot and demonstrate against discrimination and instruction in Afrikaans, the language of whites descended from the Dutch. The police react with gunfire. 575 people are killed and thousands are injured and arrested. Steven Biko is beaten and left in jail to die from his injuries. Protesters against apartheid link arms in a show of resistance.


Selection 8

(Note: This selection has examples of resistance only.
The term "Africans" is used to refer to black Africans.)

· 1980s: People and governments around
the world launch an international campaign to boycott (not do business with)
South Africa. Some countries ban the
import of South African products, and
citizens of many countries pressure major
companies to pull out of South Africa.

These actions have a crippling effect on
 the South African economy and weaken the government. The picture on the right shows a demonstration against the company Chase Manhattan.

· 1980s: Hundreds of thousands of Africans who are banned from white-controlled areas ignore the laws and pour into forbidden regions in search of work. Civil disobedience, demonstrations, and other acts of protest increase.

· late 1980s: Countries around the world increasingly pressure South Africa to end its system of apartheid. As a result, some of the segregationist laws are repealed (reversed). For example, the laws separating whites and non-whites in public places are relaxed or repealed.

· 1991: South Africa President F.W. de Klerk repeals the rest of the
 apartheid laws and calls for the drafting of a new constitution.

· 1993: A multiracial, multiparty transitional government is approved.

· 1994: Elections are held.
The United Nations sends 2,120 international observers to ensure
the fairness of the elections.
The African National Congress, representing South Africa's majority black population.
 
Nelson Mandela, the African resistance leader who had been jailed for 27 years,
 is elected President.
  




Johannesbourg seen from the history museum

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Government building



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Hotel we stayed in.
Many Employees were of mixed races. 

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Around the airport of Johannesburg,  a very modern city.


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I am going to leave these travel notes to my two grand sons, 6 and 1.5 years old
so that they can retrace these places
one day when they grow up.
I bought wooden mini sculptures of giraffe, elephants, rhino, lion, hypo etc
 as
souvenier for them.
I hope they will remember me long after I am gone from this planet.

My grandfather told me he went to Tokyo as a general labourer after the autumn harvest to make extra
money to
send my father and uncle to high school during the Japanese occupation of Korea.
Thanks to their sacrifice, I was able to finish my university education.
But they did not leave any note or writing
during their life time and
 I have no way to know what their life were like.
My grandfather kept saying that one of our
ancestors left a book of essays which he did not have.
 
In those days, they had to write in classic Chinese which was
not an easy task for an farmer.


다음날,우연히 내 第二의 生日날 (나는 생일이 두개있다) 잠비아 의 리빙스톤으로 가서
잠베지 강을 배로 다니며, 초베 국립공원 을 보고, 잠베지 강이 흘러 떠러어지는
세계최대의 빅토리아 폭포구경하면서

물벼락도 맞는다.




Zambia


Zambezi river cruise boat.


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Sun is setting on Zambezi river.


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Passport check station,


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Border town.


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Many elephants are enjoying group bath.





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Water lillies are evewrywhere,

수련이 천지사방에 있다.

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Elephants eating water lillies.


코끼리는 수련을 얼심히 먹는다.



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Water lillies again.




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Buffet lunch.



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Condoms are free everywhere.

HIV is a serious public heath problem here.


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Local children are coming to see the Victoria Fall.


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We rent a rain coat to go near Victoria Falls.


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Mr. Livingstone, a british explorer,  came here and reported this fall to Europe and
named it after the British Queen Victoria. 

I found out he was weraing the same hat I was wearing.

내가 발견한것은 이분이 그 오래전에
내가 쓰고 온 것과
똑같은 모자를 쓰고 왓다는 사실이다.




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Mist and rain make a rainbow year around.



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Farewell dance together with hotel emploees in Livingstone.



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     다음날 비행기로 나미비아의 수도 윈훅 이라는 이름도 처음들어 보는 그 나라 수도로 간다.

                   이 나라는 온통 사막지대고 무척 더웟다.



Next day, we will be heading to Namibia, ex-german colony.
For the first time, we had a local german descent guide, with german accent.
 
He told me Nambia imports lots of "motor car" from North Korea recently.


I thought he was trying to tell me they import many North Korean motor cycles.
I was suprised twice after I heard his story.
 

First surprise:  I realized he did not know which Korea is the communist country
Second surprise:  His  "motor car" meant a pasenger car.

Now I solved the riddle, (수수꺼끼)

We are going to Namibia!



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