2018.08.05 02:44
George Leigh Mallory, a story from a surgeon friend 조중행 |
George L. Mallory 는 highly intellectual Mountaineer 로써 영국의 명문 Public School 인 Winchester college, 그리고 Cambridge(Magdalene)대학에서 역사를 전공했고 당시 영국의 문화운동의 중심에 있었던 Bloomsbury Group에 속하는 학자,화가, 문인들과 가깝게 교류하였다. 요절한 유명한 시인 Rupert Brooke, Economist Maynard Keynes, 화가 Duncan Grant,등등- 특히 Maynard K.의 동생이며 20세기 영국 외과의사중 가장 존경을 받았던 Geoffrey Keynes(Myasthenia-thymectomy Classification, Keynes Transfusion system,Breast Cancer surgery)는 학생때 Alps, Pyrenes 산맥 등의 등반, rock climbing 을 같이 하였고 George Mallory의 사후 그의 부인 Ruth의 수술을 집도하였다 .(G.K 자서전-G.K Climbing Diary). Surgeon Geoffrey Keynes는 친구 Mallory의 Everest 에 대한 집념, "Because it's there" 에 대해서 다음과 같이 말하고 있다.
"Because it's there" seems to me to betray that it had become an obsession, a psychological fixation. He had held himself as partly responsible for the death of seven Sherpas, killed in an avalanche during the second expedition and before going on the third, the fatal, attempt, he admitted that he hated leaving his wife and children. Shortly before starting, he said to me that what he would have to face would be more like war than adventure, and that he did not believe he would return alive." ---The situation has its literary counterpart in Melville's Captain Ahab and his pursuit of the White Whale,Moby Dick." Knowing the tragic end results both in Mallory's attempt and Captain Ahab, the analogy with recent Korean Political events made me somewhat worrisome, in a larger context. |
George Mallory Portrait by Duncan Grant(1912) |
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Gibson's Chimney on Scafell 등반(Mallory & porter at the top & G.Keynes at bottom(1908)
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prepared by J H Choh(class of 1969) |
2018.08.05 02:57
2018.08.05 09:00
“the analogy with recent Korean political situation”
What year in Korea? 3.1 운동? How could he interested in Korea?
2018.08.05 14:36
Mallory once said, "Because it's there."
I personally feel that he really didn't mean what he said.
He just gave an excuse, so that regular people might accept it as a truth
and not ask the same question again.
In other words, he said so to keep their mouth shut.
How do I know? I personally thought about the answer many times and many years.
And I happened to have returned home alive.
During my days of mountain climbing, I was asked the same question many times.
I did not have an answer then. It was an enigma that even I could not answer or solve.
But, over the years, I had quietly developed an answer of my own
which I think Mallory would agree with me with a smile in the other world where he is.
To me and people in general, there was no justifiable reason for going through the hardship and the risk
of getting into inhumane major expeditions. I had had no real answer for many years.
After my climbing career (major expeditions. Not just a local hiking.) was over,
retrospectively, I sort of got the answer to the question of "Why do you climb?"
I realized that it was not because "It was there." in Mallory's excuse.
But, instead, the answer would have been that "Because I was HERE."
Most people may not understand this phrase of mine.
I do not know if anyone has ever said this phrase before.
I will make it easier for them to understand in four steps.
1. Because I am here alive, that's why I have to be there.
2. Because I am here captured in a cage, I have to be out there in total freedom.
3. In other words, it was an obsession to be free from the reality of living in the human social system.
4. To some people, including me, living in a prescribed "modus vivendi" was rather oppressively chocking.
So, they headed for the mountains for more fresh and free air.
It is an act of a counter-revolution, betrayal, or revenge to the human reality.
To some people (not many), life is so precious to be wasted in the civilized system of living.
2018.08.08 01:38
Alpinists! leisurely hike-,that is not the case, ' higher, farther, colder, steeper, -- snow covered even better'---
My friends never tell his wife what happened during the trips.--ㅎㅎ
all those close calls! One of them, whose name-photo, I would not disclose, still tries "abseiling" vertical drop.
Few years ago,when I was inviolved heavily in "quality improvement"activities in heart surgery at my hospital, I went through a couple of books on airline industry and mountaineering, one of which was "Into thin air" by Jon Krakauer.
System changes, team changes,etc----- at the end of a day, one priniciple--"the leader cannot fall" whether it was
fighter pilot new project, rock climbing, or heart surgery program.
Sorry for the poor quality of the pictures.
Cell phone capture from the autobiography of the British Surgeon, Geoffrey Keynes,
"The Gates of Memory"--Oxford Un iversity Press,1981