https://www.nps.gov/dena/planyourvisit/mountaineering-reports-79-89.htm

Annual Mountaineering Summaries: 1979 - 1989

By Mount McKinley National Park (Now, Denali National Park and Preserve)
 
Since 1979, mountaineering rangers in Talkeetna have written reports of that year's mountaineering season. These reports are available by year, below.

Nearly every year, these reports contain overall statistics on the number of expeditions and mountaineers attempting a climb, as well as a total number of summits, broken down by the route climbed on Denali. Download these mountaineering statistics, which have been compiled into one file.

Note: These reports are historical. Keep in mind that certain references are contemporary to the report itself (e.g., calling the mountain "Mount McKinley" instead of "Denali," old lists of guiding companies or advice on waste disposal that is no longer correct). For current information on planning a mountaineering trip on Denali or Mount Foraker, please check out our mountaineering info.

 
Annual Summary: 1979

About 680 mountaineers climbed the major peaks of Mount McKinley National Park and Denali National Monument. As in previous years, nearly a third of the climbers travelled to Alaska from foreign countries. Eighteen Japanese expeditions and eight German parties climbed in the park and monument along with groups from Belgium, Ireland, Korea, Switzerland, Sweden, Mexico, England, Canada, France, and Iceland.

The overall success ratio for climbers was approximately 60%. Sixteen climbers were involved in major accidents, and three climbers were killed in accidents on Mount Hunter and Mount McKinley.

The Northeast Ridge of Mount Foraker (via Mount Crosson) was climbed for the first time by an Alaskan party who completed their winter ascent in March. All sections of the route had been previously climbed but this was the first time that the entire route was completed in one trip. Later in the summer, a climbing team from Oregon made the first ascents of the South Ridge of Mount Huntington and the South Face of the South Peak of the Rooster's Comb. Another "first" was recorded in May when an Alaskan dog team reached the summit of Mount McKinley via the West Buttress route.

A Japanese climber was killed and another injured early in May when a corniced ridge they were traversing collapsed on the West Ridge of Mount Hunter. The injured climber was able to make his way alone back to the landing spot on the Kahiltna Glacier.

Two Korean climbers were killed and one was seriously injured when they fell descending the upper part of the West Rib on Mount McKinley. The team had reached the summit and were descending when one member lost his footing. The exhausted team was unable to stop the fall and slid 1,500-2,000 feet down the slope.

Three West German climbers were evacuated from the West Buttress route after two became seriously ill from cerebral and pulmonary edema. The group had climbed up the mountain far too fast for proper acclimatization, reaching 18,000 feet only four days after beginning their climb. Two other cases of high altitude pulmonary edema were also caused by rapid ascents.

Five cases of pulmonary edema, three cases of cerebral edema, and at least ten cases of acute mountain sickness were reported. Eight climbers reported falls and twenty-two reported receiving some frostbite. More minor cases of acute mountain sickness and frostbite probably occurred but were not reported.

The National Park Service was involved in twelve separate incidents where climbing parties required outside assistance or evacuation. These incidents cost the National Park Service approximately $10,000. Several climbing groups voluntarily paid for the costs of their rescues.

Trash left by mountaineers continues to plague the more popular routes on Mount McKinley. Most is left by groups who do not carefully plan in advance. Repacking food into plastic bags before the climb can eliminate a great deal of the foil and unnecessary wrappings. This will greatly reduce the amount of trash to be dealt with while on the climb. Groups should carefully plan how much food is necessary for their climb to avoid the necessity of abandoning excess food on the mountain. On certain routes, fixed ropes litters many sections. Fixed ropes should be used as infrequently as is safely possible and should be removed after each climb when feasible. Most importantly, all climbers must make a commitment before they start their climbs that they will bring everything back down with them that they have carried up. Only if this is done will future climbers be able to enjoy the beauty and cleanliness of Alaska's mountains as they should.